Don't struggle with that swinging-arm!

Having put the Sporty up on blocks a few weeks ago, and struggled to get the
back wheel and swinging-arm out (for powder-coating and new bearings),
I was a bit worried about getting it all back together again without scratching
the new paint.
After a while I hit on a cunning plan.
Rather than put the swinging-arm and suspension in first, and then wriggle the wheel back in
and under the mudguard, I placed the back wheel under the mudguard (sorry,
fender) first.
Then slid the swinging arm (with brake calliper carrier in
place) under the frame and back.
Then lifted it up, put the pivot-bolt in,
lifted the other end up to put the wheel spindle in and raised the lot to
bolt up the shocks.
No fuss, no problem, no scratches. Easy!
Andy

squealing brake pads .
2 tricks:
1. use duct tape on backing & if they still squeal .
2.l with very small drill bit into pad and insert lead pencil refill , this really does the trick

Bill Sterner

Clean brakes.

For the most part, brake pads last a long time. As they wear out, the piston in the caliper pushes out to compensate for the pad wear. So the piston gets dirty, real dirty. found that if I clean the piston with some WD-40 and a rag before I push it back in the caliper, the seals last longer. Try it, it's easy and smart.

Keep your handlebars on it's place.

Don't you hate it when your handlebars move on you? It seems that you can't cinch down tight enough on the Allen bolts on those risers to keep your bars from moving.
This is especially annoying with ape hangers, since there is so much leverage with tall bars. Shims don't work, and it seems that you're facing an endless struggle with the damn things.

The solution I came up with eliminated this problem for good on my scoot. Drill with a'/o-inch bit down through the top of the riser clamp and down through the handlebar. Then use an SAE tap to tap into the riser. Complete the job with an Allen bolt or a nice chrome bolt and washer, and I guarantee that your handlebars won't slip after that. With a little time and effort, you can make it look cosmetically correct to the rest of your bike.

Finky

Powdercoat your bike? Learn from this guy!

I learned my powdercoating lesson the hard way.
I thought I could save a few bucks on having my frame powder-coated by stripping it down myself.
So I took all the parts (engine, forks, body-work, etc.) off and hauled it down to the local coaler.
I picked out the color and was told to come back in a week.
Well, I picked up the frame and it looked great!
I started reassembly when I discovered the powdercoaters didn't remove or even tape off the bearings, engine mounting surface or swingarm pivots.
So all the money I thought I saved needed to be reinvested in bearings, and the time it took me to scrape all the excess powdercoating.
Take my advice-if you don't know what you are doing, pay a little more and learn how to do it right the first time.

Snake

Easy/good way to bleed your brakes.

When you need to bleed your disc brakes, you'll want to go down to one of your local hardware stores and pick up an oil can, one with a little snout on it.
Make sure it is new and hasn't been contaminated with any oil. Fill it with Dot 5 brake fluid.
You want to attach a small I piece of hose to the end of the oil can and then attach that to the bleeder screw on your caliper. You want to make sure that your master cylinder lid is removed so you can keep an eye on the fluid levels.
Brake your bleeder screw loose and start pumping the fluid through the bleeder screw into the caliper, up the hose and into the master cylinder.
As the master cylinder starts to fill, keep and eye on the bubbles.
Once the bubbles have stopped, that means there is no air in the system.
Lock tight your bleeder screw, remove the nipple, and you should have all the air out of the system.
It's an easy, convenient and inexpensive way to bleed your brakes without the normal hassles.

boar.

TIME TO BREAK IN tires and brakes!

Did you realize that you must break in new tires and brake pads? Since most worn brake pads are found when changing tires, it is a good idea to incorporate both break-ins at once. When you get new tires there is a slight coat of of slippery stuff on them. This needs to be worn off before you try to ride hard. Brake pads need to be worn in gradually, using soft pressure for the first few miles. Allow them to cool and then increase the pressure. What I do is plan a long leisurely ride to slowly wear in the tires and break in the brake pads. Not only does this make them work better, it gives me an excuse to ride all day by myself.

Drew.

Easy Kickstand spring removal

Here's a simple way to remove and re-install your kickstand spring without having to fight with it.
While a buddy holds up the bike, extend the kickstand until the spring is stretched to its great-est length.
Place three or four %-inch flatwashers between the coils, then put up the kickstand.
The washers will pre-vent the spring from retracting completely so you can remove it easily.
With the washers still in place, you can re-install the spring later, without breaking a sweat, by reversing the process .
Be careful when using the kick-stand without the spring; make sure the kickstand is properly located or you might find your bike on its side.
Chuck

Clean brakes.

Bill

squealing brake pads .
2 tricks:
1. use duct tape on backing & if they still squeal .
2.l with very small drill bit into pad and insert lead pencil refill , this really does the trick

Keep it easy.

After painting your frame,dont struggle with putting your motor in.
Or the chance of scratching the frame. Simply lay the motor on it's side and lower
the frame in place.
So easy your ol'lady can help!
RODGER

LOSING MY CALIPeR.
Recently I had a problem with my '80 FX-the rear caliper was loose and rubbing against the rotor. On closer inspection I found that the steel caliper support pin had worn an egg-shaped hole in the aluminum caliper body.
My local shop wanted $200 to fix it, and $300 for a replacement. 1 decided to try fixing it myself first.
At a local starter/alternator shop purchased a few ½-inch inside-diameter brass starter bushings. Then I counter-bored the caliper body ½-inch smaller that the outside diameter of the bushing, and then pressed the bushings in place
Now I have the steel support pin riding in a brass housing, so no more wear can happen in the caliper body. My time and $6 is all it took to save $200 or so.
This fix has worked for 16,000 miles now, so I think it's pretty good.
George.

PLASTIC FANTASTIC
l've got a tip for anyone who's planning on removing parts from their bike for replacement, painting, etc. A good way to protect the swingarm and frame from scratches is to use one of those plastic sleeves sold as slip-on covers for shower rods. They are already split lengthwise, so all you have to do is cut them to the length needed, then slip them over the area of the frame or swingarm you' re working on. If a wrench slips or you're sliding something into place, it won't damage the paint.
Tom .

Frame protection.

Before putting your engine back into your freshly painted frame, pick up either a shower-curtain rod cover or pipe insulation (used in colder areas). These inexpensive tubes slip right over the frame tubes, can be held in place by duct tape and slide right out when you are done. At last there is a way to install your engine without scratching your frame.

Richard

STOP THOSE SQUEAKS!
Nothing can ruin your feeling of pride as you're cruising the boulevard on your righteous putt more than the annoying sounds of squealing brakes. Brake dust is the leading cause of squealing brakes, so when you're changing the pads, clean everything. When replacing pads or shoes, chamfer their leading edges. Also, check to see if the pads are correctly floating on the locating pins inside the caliper. If not, they can vibrate fast enough to cause squealing. To avoid this, I use a disc brake "quiet' spray applied to the back sides of the pads. Its actually a rubber coating. Once it's dry, the pads can go back in, and 99 percent of the time, the squeal won't be back. Permatex and Solder Seal make versions of this product, and it really works.
Jim

OUT, YOU BLEEDER
Here's a tip I picked up long ago after I bought one of my first Harleys. This problem is often overlooked, but in situations where a leaky caliper or wheel cylinder (such as on older FL models) is rebuilt, it is sometimes impossible to get the bleeder screw open. You often end up rounding or breaking oft the fit-ting, not to mention delaying your plans for that ride the next day. To prevent this, take a wrench and try to open the bleeder screws right after you purchase the scooter. When they open, pull them out, check the threads and clean them it necessary. The most important step then is to apply a fine coat of antiseize to the threads. This is necessary because you have a steel bleeder screw going into an aluminum caliper or a cast-iron wheel cylinder, and through electrolysis, it can actually weld itself in place. A light coat of anti-seize will keep this this from spoiling the next day's ride.
Richard

I'LL BLEED YOU RIGHT
When you need to bleed your disc bra sure to apply the correct torque. Since I've done this, I spend more time in the saddle and less time looking for things that have fallen off!
Cal

LEAKY-FORK BLUES
Does your front end leak fork oil? Is it driving you nuts that you don't have the time or money to rebuild your forks for a while? Here's my temporary cure.
Pop your caps oft and pour ½ ounce of transmission or power-steering conditioner into the tubes. This causes the fork seals to swell without dam-aging them. Now the seals will last a little longer until you've got the time, money and help, if necessary, to rebuild the forks.
Ed

WASTE NOT
Using paint from a spray bottle is a waste of time and too difficult for detail work It's sort of like painting a wire fence with a spray can. A better way is to pick up a foam-tipped, tapered pain brush. Pour the paint into a different container and paint it on. No more mess and it is easy to get to hard-to-reach places like the fins on a black engine.
Greg

TIME TO BREAK IN
Did you realize that you must break in new tires and brake pads? Since most worn brake pads are found when changing tires, it is a good idea to incorporate both break-ins at once. When you get new tires there is a slight coat of of slippery stuff on them. This needs to be worn off before you try to ride hard. Brake pads need to be worn in gradual-ly, using soft pressure for the first few miles. Allow them to cool and then in-crease the pressure. What I do is plan a long leisurely ride to slowly wear in the tires and break in the brake pads. Not only does this make them work better, it gives me an excuse to ride all day by myself.
Drew